The Fujifilm Blog published an interview with Fuji Manager Mr. Takashi Ueno. Here are some excerpts.

“Full frame body + High performance lens” can be achieved with “Small APS-C body + High performance lens”

Mr. Takashi Ueno “We gave a lot of thought to this, and reached our conclusion that APS-C is the best format for the optimum balance of body size and image quality. […] Higher image quality can be achieved with full frame sensors, but in order to maximize the use of the sensor size, the lens will be very bulky and heavy.

[…] if you attach the large and heavy high performance lens to the full frame DSLR, then you will certainly get high image quality. The combination will maximize the potential of the full frame, but if you have to carry the bulky lens everywhere to achieve the high image quality, then this is not what FUJIFILM is aiming for.

Question: “OK, Smaller and lightweight body can be achieved with APS-C but how about the “High image quality” part?”

Mr. Takashi Ueno “The technology of the FUJINON lens has a lot to do with that. With the power of FUJINON lens, we can achieve the full frame image quality with the APS-C sensor. […] We learned that the disadvantage can be recovered with the lens performance through various simulations.

Here is an example. It is generally believed that the lens performs at its best with 1 to 2 stop down from the maximum aperture. We tried to break the norm. Because if there is such belief, then the lens is very unlikely to perform at its best from corner to corner with the aperture wide open. But if we can break the norm, then we will achieve bokeh and sharpness that is equivalent to that of a full frame with 1 to 2 stop down. We can achieve the image quality that is equivalent to that of full frame.

Which is better? An f/1.4 lens on a full frame sensor and then used 1 stop down to prevent degradation in the image quality in the corner or an f/1.4 lens on an APS-C that see no degration in the image quality at its maximum aperture value?

You cannot really see the difference in bokeh between the APS-C wide open and the full frame one stop down. However, if the APS-C is wide open, then the shutter speed will be twice as fast as the full frame resulting in be less blur caused by hand shake or subject movement. If the picture becomes blurry, then the high image quality becomes meaningless.”

X-TRANS

Through various simulation, we learned that the 16M X-Trans sensor had the potential to rival the resolution of a 24M bayer sensor. [admin: confirmed by dpreview tests].

The combination of FUJIFILM color reproduction, the X-Trans sensor, and the FUJINON lens technology, allowed us to create an interchangeable lens camera that could rival the image quality of full frame D-SLR in the APS-C format.

If we make a cheap low performing lens, then the degradation in image quality is more apparent for the X-Trans sensor than a typical sensor. X-Trans sensor requires high performance lens.

Read the whole interview at the fujifilm-blog here

Good move Fujifilm… better to go directly Medium Format… we already have a pretty solid rumor about it here ;)

It doesn’t work, no AF-improvement, it doesn’t focus between each shot in CL or CH, no faster AF in low light! This is some of the negative feedback we could read in the comments on FR and at the Fuji-X-Forum here.

So what… is Firmware 4 just crap? Well, sometimes (often?) it’s just a matter to find the right settings. Here is an extended list tips:

1) Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect).
2) Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled. [UPDATE: years after this article was written, a firmware update for certain Fujifilm cameras enabled phase detection also when using face detecion. New Fujifilm cameras have this already integrated at launch.] 3) High Performance Mode ON: many don’t even know that this features exists, like Calipedro here. It’s definitely worth to sacrifice a bit of battery life. Fuji should put this feature ON as standard.
4) Keep you subject in the center: Phase detection pixels are located in the center of the sensor. Keep your subject in the center and PDAF will give you a faster AF.
5) Use all Phase Detection Pixels with Zone AF 5×3: To take advantage of all the phase detection pixels, set you Zone AF box to 5×3 and place it in the center of the frame. Within this 5×3 box tracking will be very smooth… at least that’s my experience with my crazy dog.
6) Increase the size of the AF-box: If you use Single Point AF, increase the size of the AF-box as much as possible.
7) PRE-AF: The camera will continuously adjust focus, even if the shutter is not pressed (of half pressed). This can help to get the first shot in focus quicker. Downside: more battery drain.
8) LENS FIRMWARE: make absolutely sure that the lens is updated to the latest firmware version.
9) Different Lens, Different results: According to the lens you use, the AF-improvement will be more or less (or not) visible. For example, I was very happy with the improvement of my 55-200, but I can’t really say if the 18-55 or 14 has become faster.
10) The learning curve: Practice and get used to the new features. See what works best in which situation
11) Let Rico study for you. Rumors has it, that Rico will update his X-T1 book and tell us how to make the best out of our new Fuji X-T1 FW 4. Once it’s out, all we have to do is to read his updated book.

So, do you have more tips? Then share them in the comments.

And don’t stop to share your findings on Fujirumors and at the Hot Firmware threads of the Fuji-X-Forum.

enjoy your day… and FW 4.0 :) ,
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